I take a deep breath as this Blog begins. Where do I start? Ethiopia leaves me with more questions than answers… Its an enigma.
For most of my adventures’,,,,,, I leave the countries with a definite impression. Good or bad; With a desire to return or to avoid.
Ethiopia instead leaves me with unknowns. Confusion.
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Landing in Addis Ababa, from Antananarivo Madagascar. Immediately I’m an outlier. No tourist are on my flight.. And only a few passengers are stopping in Ethiopia … almost all are transfers…with onward travel.
I am shocked by the size of the Addis airport!! It is huge !! There looks to be hundreds of Air Ethiopian planes lined up, the terminal is gigantic. I had no real understanding of Addis being a major travel hub in Africa… Millions pass thru the airport,,,but very few stop to visit.
Straight away, Ethiopia challenges me. The immigration officer keeps accusing me of being in the wrong place, that it’s illegal for me to me there, yet,, I have just stepped off the plane. Finally, he looks at my identification and Visa info… he is put-off, because he needs to look me up. He will not stamp my passport until I give him a ‘gift’… aka, a bribe. I slip a $20 thru the counter, and magic – I’m allowed to enter Ethiopia. TIA…
Even my pre-arranged transfer from the ADD airport is an event. I’m told to sit in a special safe area for foreigners… as someone calls my hotel for pick-up. OK.. good to be safe I guess. I have 4 of these transfers.. they don’t want me stepping outside alone.
Fortunately, I have a good hotel planned. Another Radisson Blu.. one of 2 high-end hotels in Addis… Good plan Bruce. Expensive, but a safe haven here.
Traveling solo, unscripted again… The next day I arrange for a taxi to see a few sights of Addis Ababa. I had failed to hire a local Addis Ababa tour guide ☹ I tried, but strangely – they where highly overpriced, and just take you to the same place I arrange myself.
First and highest on my Ethiopia list: To see their National Museum. They have the invaluable Lucy there !!! An archaeological treasure. The bones of a 3.2 female, that every Biology student has had at-least one test question on 😊 I’m in evolutionary biology geek-world !!! I love this stuff. Plenty of amazing fossils, and a good collection of Ethiopian art was also on display. A crazy thing about this visit; Entry was 50 Biri Ethiopian … 92c US - that’s insane, to see the invaluable, historic Lucy.
While in Addis Ababa, I also find my way to the University of Ababa. Here is the former Home/palace of Haile Selassie – the late Emperor of Ethiopia. He is legendary, and ruled Ethiopia for over 40 years. He is believed to be a decedent of the King of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. .. Haile Selassie is also considered the messiah by the Rastafarian’s. It’s a privilege to learn this history of Ethiopia….but unfortunately, I found exploring Addis a challenge.. I used much of my time there to arrange onward travel and a tour of another Ethiopian city – Lalibela.
Lalibela is next up ..…and the main reason I am traveling to Ethiopia. I have arranged a guide to for the famous Rock Hewn churches there. With tours of village markets and visits to a local home for coffee… a good plan..
But my plan goes sideways !!! ,,,, my travel to Lalibela in the north of Ethiopia was another TIA experience. Nothing seemed to go right. Ethiopia is not ready for tourists !!
Arriving at the domestic terminal in Addis, attempting to travel to Lalibela … I am told my ticket is not valid… I must purchase another… uggg… US cash only.. Lucky I can manage the event… I buy another ticket …. TIA
But that is just the start of my day ..… After checking in, boarding the plane, seated.. just about to close the airplane door ….. Ethiopian security comes aboard,, to my seat… and I am removed from the plane.
Definitely a first for me. I'll never forget this !!! An anxious event is an understatement. I am deemed a risk … because a tiny low-low power 3in binocular is found in my checked luggage. Wow… I was unprepared for that !!
It took another 3 hours to sort out this issue with security… they take my binoculars… I miss the flight.. and my arrangements in Lalibela. Somehow, I make it back to my hotel in Addis… successfully check-in… My transfer back to my un-booked hotel was intense..I was caught in pooring rain, not feeling well…had to use a public toilet outside the airport … which was worse than an outhouse in the middle of an African village… Ugg… TIA… onward.
OK. Don’t give up Bruce…I'm always saying I love adventures !!! So, I arrange for another flight tomorrow.. adjust my tour and hotel in Lalibela… try again.
This time,,, my domestic flight is a success.. I don’t check any luggage this time 😊
And wow!!! The 11 amazing Churches are magnificent. Worthy of my effort to see them. I cross paths with only 2-3 other tourists total in Lalibela. If you don’t know about these churches,,, you should. They are epic!! 800yo, cut into solid Rock. - crazy.
This is not an easy place to explore. Just 1.5 years ago, Lalibela was controlled by separatist rebels… not even under Ethiopian Government control… Security is high. Military at the airport, mountain tops, on the streets. Its just now getting back to ‘normal’.. and tourists starting to trickle in. I’m an outlier, again.
This Northern region of Ethiopia amazing for me. 95% Cristian. Everyone wears a cross. I’ve never been anywhere like this. I learn more of Africa every day 😊
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Ethiopia is world known for its Coffee. And in particular, the famous Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony. In Lalibela, my guide brings me to a local house…..where the owner treats me to this privilege. An authentic Ethiopian experience. I am in Coffee heaven here!!! This is why I travel… To experience the village, local life.
I do have one additional fantastic experience in Lalibela… a village market walk. Local people and the children are always the best part of African visits… While Ethiopia is a difficult visit.. its not because of the village people… its people of power and guns….like everywhere I guess.
Back to Addis Ababu..and another transfer to my downtown hotel. Just one final night. Collect my baggage, repack. Onward to Uganda… but even that plan is in jeopardy. Uganda has not processed my visa… and there is a chance the airline will not permit me to board the flight…. Stressful. ☹
Fortunately… I am an American… And the current regulations say I can receive my Uganda visa on arrival… I am permitted to fly.
Goodbye Ethiopia. You have been a challenge. There was so much more I had hoped to explore here; The Simien Mountains, the Ono villages, the Danakil Depression ..… But those were not to be. Arranging these destinations was just a-bit too much for my unscripted solo plan .… Looks like joining a big, high-priced tour… in maybe 1-2 years would be the best option to explore more of Ethiopia.
But for now,, it’s a push. An enigma. A destination for the adventurous minded.
Ethiopia is surrounded by neighboring countries in civil war and complete chaos. Sudan, South Sudan, Somalia – so it shouldn’t come as a surprise travel here is difficult.. guess I was being overly optimistic about my visit here.
So,,,,,I depart feeling fortunate to have seen Lalibela… and Lucy. 😊
Onward.
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