French Polynesia - Travelogue

A cluster of tiny islands, a million miles from everything. The 118 islands that comprise this French collective are about as-far from anywhere on the planet a person can get. I explore the Society Islands (Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora) and the Tuamotu Archipelago – plenty more to discover.

Papeete, the capital and largest city is located on the island of Tahiti. About as expected for-me, – sorta a little random mix, with a busy port and plenty of tourist retail on the streets. Not exactly the paradise you might envision. The city thrives on Cruise ships. Thousands of people fly into Papeete; hop aboard a Cruise ship and tour a few of the FP islands. Often only exploring Papeete as they might explore Nassau, Bahamas … not meeting the people, not seeing the countryside, not getting in the ocean.

I spend 3-nights here at Hotel Sarah Nui, a great little hotel just off downtown. Using the Scuba dive operator TopDive to jump start my adventure. Sharks, Eagle Rays, Napoleon Wrasse in the White Valley …. Just a taste of diving to come.

French spoken everywhere, but everyone seemed to understand my English… Dogs roam the streets, everyone seems to smoke, and like most islands - the food is not the best. The one cultural observation that strikes me is that French Polynesia is 90% French; 10% Polynesian. Nothing like the Polynesian nations of Samoa or Fiji.

I begin to say Bonjour and Merci and Au revoir. Although French, they are much friendlier than Paris!!

Onto Moorea. I hop the Ferry to Tahiti’s sister island. Just a short 1-hour ride. The Ferry was huge, and very comfortable. Unfortunately, its rainy season here – and its pouring. After collecting my luggage and a rental car I find my hotel – Fare Tokava : A bungalow on the West of the island. Now we’re getting somewhere. Moorea is gorgeous. Its jagged peaked mountains are crazy amazing, overlooking the Pacific.

The rain continues and my first day of diving in Moorea is canceled. I did get to explore a bit. Take a few pictures, stop at Cooks bay and a few beaches (not much compared to Florida beaches). At least the pace is island time. The ring-road of this island, like many here in French Polynesia is well paved. Got to complement the French for that!

Finally a break in the weather and I dive Moorea the next 3 days. Nothing too exciting here, much like the diving off of Tahiti. Some Lemon sharks this time, lots of hard coral and scattered reef fish. The high light of Moorea is the great island vibe, and the drive to the center of the island. The views from the peak are magnificent; breathtaking pictures. The rains have ruined the visibility and the dives are only so-so both here and in Tahiti.

After Moorea I Ferry-ride back to Papeete and island hop on Air-Tahiti to Rangoria; a long day. My life aboard the dive boat will embark from Rangoria and drop me in Fakavara. The Tuamotu atolls await. I blog about my 11 days aboard the French Polynesian Master (the ship name) separately – so much to share it fills an entire story. ( A wonderous adventurous. NOW that’s diving! - So many sharks, dolphins, and challenging currents along our voyage - Wow!!)

I have 2 nights in Rangoria at a Dorm-room styled hotel – Va’a te Moana. A wonderful experience..if not a little funny and educational. ( check out my humorous blog about Dorm Dilemma.) Biking a bit on the island was scenic and fun; and diving the famous Tiputu pass (with TopDive) of this atoll was a true adventure. Now I’m traveling. Sharks, ripping fast currents. I’m in the right place!! I’m already wanting to return here.

After life aboard my a dive boat, repacking and disembarking: -- I spend my final day in the Tuamotu atolls on Fakarava before yet another island hop flight. Next up the famous Bora Bora.

One quick story about Fakarava. My afternoon lunch at a hotel was spectacular. Views that were epic. Blue oceans, tiki bar’s in the water. Wow; this is the place to stay. Staying here is on my list for the next visiit!!! As I arrive here, a family sits at one of the Tiki tables in the water (lagoon). Crystal water, a table with bench. Two young children (4-5yo) are eating fries. Just 10 feet way, a 5 foot Nurse shark lazily swims by in the shallow 3 foot waters. The father keeps a close eye out, but no big deal – just another shark.

Arriving late in Bora Bora; it’s one of my most interesting airport’s ever. Just a strip runway on an outer atoll. Here, Everyone boards a ferry for a transfer to Vaitape – the city-center of Bora Bora. After a full day of travel, I’ve made it to another island. How many is that…I’ve lost count.

Like most over hyped destinations; Bora Bora started down that path. Yes its beautiful, but so are all the other French Polynesian islands. Yes the diving is good, but so-what the atolls are better. Yes they have gorgeous beaches on their lagoon, but so does Florida. Yes the scenic mountain peaks overlooking turquois water are stunning… but isn’t everywhere in the South Pacific? …. OK,OK; I give up!!! Its great here.

I’ve again successful booked a cheap small hotel (Sunset Hill) – and its perfect (like all the others I booked here in French Polynesia). Diving 7 more dives here with TopDive starts a-bit slow the first day. Standard basic reef dives; the Tuamotu atolls have spoiled me. But the second day; Bora Bora begins to redeem itself. Three of the dives are packed with sharks – including some huge 11-12 foot Lemon sharks; another dive had Manta Rays; and yet another Eagle Rays. Diving with Black Tips circling above and huge Lemon sharks below has become so every-day after 45 dives in French Polynesia. I’ll never look at sharks the same after this adventure.

One of the wonderful bonus’s of using a local resort-dive operator (like TopDive) is your boat rides. In the case of Bora Bora; I travel thru-out the lagoon. Passing by all the famous, gorgeous resorts – stopping to pickup more divers. Taking in the crazy perfect vista’s of this paradise. Just the boat ride alone is worth the dive-cost.

Unfortunately; resort diving with TopDive (Tahiti, Moorea, Rangoria, Bora Bora) always include visitors from the cruise ships – just deal with it! TopDive had great dive guides, boats, and transfers….that’s enough. Bora Bora is a huge cruise ship destination; and survives like Tahiti on the money it brings. Typical T-shirt and retail shops are street side, and they promptly close shop when the tourists are called back to their ship. The food is expensive and mostly terrible, but the mountain and atoll views are worthy of Bora Bora’s fame.

Ahh!! I just found the food. A fantastic French restaurant; St James with views of the lagoon. French gourmet in paradise. (… no food truck for me tonight )

Made it back to Chen Lee’s – the ubiquitous Chinese grocery store found on all island nations (and in most large cities of the world). Loaded up with breakfast foods and snacks. Life on the road.

I rent a scooter on my final full day in Bora Bora. Circling the island, seeing the majestic views of mountains and atolls. The snorkeling from here is very modest, so are the beaches. If you want those you’ll need to book a room on the other atolls for the high-rent fee’s. Hundreds of rooms over the lagoon offer panoramic pictures … but most cost $500-$1000 or much much more. All the good resorts seem to be located out on the atoll here…and do have beautiful protected beaches and good snorkeling. But in my nomad travel-style; I skip that plan and just explore the main island..

One more flight back to Papeete, Tahiti and a final night there. My month in French Polynesia is complete. Wow; time in paradise does fly by. Next up: back to New Zealand – (and beyond.)