Time to explore The Galapagos Islands of Ecuador; Diving the Oceano Pacifica, Hiking Volcano’s, learning the vibe of its towns. This is a place unique on the planet – iconic, and absolutely worthy of its fame. Everyone in the World knows The Galapagos.
I’m finally here. Time to channel Darwin.
Just ‘Ask Charles’. Its 1835 … not 2023. Over 3 weeks of island life on the Equator.
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Everything in the Galapagos seems epic. National Geographic inspired marine life and land animals; everywhere species only found in these islands. Hold on for the ride.
Being a Microbiology geek – Charles Darwin and his book ‘On the Origin of Species’ hold a honored place on my highest shelf. Darwin didn’t even know of DNA, of Molecular Biology,,,but was an adventurer and genius.
I always suggest everyone read his work. It will surprise you… Few realize he studied the evolution of behavior as well as anatomy – evolution is more than you imagine …. Check it out some time. Ask Charles.
Back to the Galapagos.
I’m here to dive. I end up with 30 dives and 5 snorkel adventures – spread over a dozen islands. Wolf and Darwin Islands, undoubtedly the pinnacle of this paradise.
Flying from Quito – I start this adventure on San Cristobal Island. Only 4 islands of the Galapagos are inhabited by humans. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno of San Cristobal, is the second largest town in the Galapagos. An easy 5 minute, $2 taxi transfer from the airport and it starts!! Wow, I’m in Diving Mecca.
First-off; find a local dive shop. There is a dozen in this tiny town. I choose Wreck Bay Divers. Just one day of diving here – at Kicker Rock. A typical resort dive boat event; a short 20 minute ride to a giant Rock formation off San Cristobal – that looks like a foot …… And my introduction to diving the Galapagos.
Yes!!! It’s the perfect intro - My first Sea Lions underwater. Fun Diving!!! They look so happy. I want to pet them. This is cool stuff!!!
Over the next three weeks, I dive with over 100 Sea Lions - dancing and checking me out. Diving with Sea Lions ‘has’ to be the highlight of my Galapagos trip!! I need a few Sea Lion at home. I do have a pool. Wonder if that’s legal?
On land,, Sea Lions are everywhere too!! Laying on benches.. On sidewalks, even roads at times. Covering docks..and a few entire beaches. It’s crazy; SeaWorld 100m from my hotel.
When I’m not being amazed by the Sea Lions.. I’m snapping photos of Marine Iguana.. how can there be so-many? Marine Iguana on the beaches, rocks, sidewalks. Warming up between swims I-guess. Or digging holes.
I explore a coast-line Park just north of Puerto Baquerizo. A 3 hour afternoon hike. Starting just outside my hotel. Incredible views and a small museum. Darwin is said to have first landed here in 1835.
Still exploring San Cristobal, I visit a volcano lagoon - on the other side of the island…the only fresh water in all the Galapagos. Diving, hiking and adjusting to island life. A good start.
@Home - A tiny island town on the Equator, in the Pacific, 1000km from South America. Hiding from the world.
Small Island life is slow, absolutely safe, calm. Find a restaurant, enjoy an expresso – blend in. Just 4 nights here on San Cristobal, my first Galapagos island; I blink and it’s time to move on.
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Next up; A Live Aboard dive boat. I’m in my element; a week on the “Galapagos Sky.” Diving with 15 other clients, 2 dive masters -- and a crew of 12. The “Sky” is a top-end ship and experience. This Live Aboard schedules more dives on Wolf and Darwin Islands than any other ship. Diving 4 times a day .. transiting among the islands. An amazing itinerary that few get to experience.
The Quick “Sky” Itinerary; Bartolome Island and Cousins Rock off Santiago Island, Wolf Island, Darwin Island, Fernandina Island, Isabela Island, and Pinzon Island. Some of these destinations are as remote as it gets. Only a few boats travel to the far North. I’ve picked a great dive boat!!
To this great-list of diving destinations; I add daily diving trips from two land-based Dive Shop Operators – first out of San Cristobal and later Santa Cruz Island.
Every stop is an adventure; Hammerhead Sharks, Sea Lions, White Tip Sharks, Penguins, Green Turtles, Marine Iguana … and a thousand spectacular unique Ocean friends. Always more photos…
Its February, and summer in the Southern Hemisphere. This results in warmer and weaker Southernly Humboldt current; the normal yearly cycle. So, diving wasn’t the freezing-cold I feared. Ranging around 21-22 C for most dives – I get along with my 3m and extra layers. Only in the far Western islands of Galapagos – Fernandina and Isabela - the water temp drops to 17-18 C. Here I rent a 7m wetsuit for the cold dives; and layer up. Just at my comfort limit.
Diving the thermoclines in the Galapagos is a daily event. Created by the world-unique merger of Three Huge Ocean currents, precisely at the meeting point of Earths Titanic Plates – Volcanos and Dramatic Islands and Rich Nutrients. The Galapagos.
Galapagos: Isolated from the Planet. A magnet for marine life and a laboratory for evolution.
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I’m diving Isabela Island; at a depth of 5m, the water temperature is 22C – comfortable. Just below me, into the deep - my view has shimmering waves…as if I’m looking at a hot road, seeing the heat rise and distort the light. That’s a thermocline --- but here at Isabela,,, the thermocline is below you, and COLD!!
Continuing my Isabela dive - I drop deeper, just a few meters. Pow!! The Water temperature drops to 17C. Unless prepared, with proper gear…. It’s like stepping into a freezer.. today I’m prepared.
I’ve only dove cold water a few times…It presents difficult challenges for some divers (like me),,,, but pelagic marine life love it!!! So Bruce, just dive and shut-up.
Although located on the Equator, Galapagos diving is not tropical,,,no warm Caribbean waters; instead its cold offers a GIFT – amazing animal encounters!!
Photography of giant Sharks and Fish and Sea Lions … thru the thermoclines is a difficult skill to mastered. Many of my shots are out of focus - thru a shimmer. Still, I hope a few look good – I have so many. My photography skills are still a WIP, always. I learn a little with each dive. Take a look at my Website Galleries or IG posts…a few are amazing – I love the animals.
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Life on a Live Aboard dive boat can fill an entire Blog. Meeting new friends, adjusting to their dive skill set, characteristics. Sharing excitement for the animals we see each day. Always fantastic food, and a quality crew.
Traveling solo, I often share a cabin with a stranger – normal for me… and also for him – cool. I meet a new friend.. You can never have enough in life!!
Dive briefings, Equipment prep. Testing your Nitrox tanks. Most dives are only 20m max depth. I reach 30m just once. Overall, Galapagos was easy diving for me. Maybe I’m just lucky with the season; the seas and rains? The seas only get rough once-or twice the entire voyage.
The dive sites I explore deliver almost everything Galapagos can offer – lucky me!!
My list of Pelagic Animals is long; Hammerheads are at the top. And Fur Seals, Sea Lions, White Tips, Black Tips, Galapagos Sharks, Penguins, Octopus, Dolphin, Marble Rays, Eagle Rays, Mobula Rays, Sting Rays. I lose track!!! So many. Just one Manta Ray at the surface..none diving.
Only one dive objectives fails: no Mola Mola – More often found in Sept/Oct…maybe I will return one day? Leave something for another adventure!!
I finish my Live Aboard at Santa Cruz island, Puerto Ayoro. Spending another week here is a great plan. Diving most days; snorkeling or hiking the others.
Yeah, I pack in action every day. Zero down time.. Exhausting, but no time to waste!!! So much to see in the Galapagos,,,,and I’m not going to miss one thing!!
Not wasting a minute: I arrange to dive out to Santa Cruz with Scuba Iguana, a local dive shop – and a great choice. More diving: Floreana Island – a long 1:40 hour boat crossing to the dive sites, and another adventure!! Cormorant Point.
Also diving with Scuba Iguana – I make dive trips to Gordan Rocks, North Seymore, and Mosquera Islands – all off the North of Santa Cruz. Dive. Dive. Dive.
One afternoon on Santa Cruz. I join a small tour group,, visiting North Seymore by boat and land – to snorkel and hike this bird paradise. Up-close with a Blue Footed Booby - on its nest….and several species of Frigate. Nature seems endless here.
On Santa Cruz, I stay at Casa de Judy – in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the Galapagos. A simple mid-range hotel. Easy to walk the town, easy to find good restaurants. Way more options here than San Cristobal.
And best of all; a top-notch Coffee Shop. “1835 Coffee Lab” – a nod to Darwin. Local Galapagos coffee beans and the best expresso I’ve ever had!! Who would have guessed?
..and did I mention Penguins, or the Sharks every day, or vibrating life at every corner. I’m in love with the Galapagos!
Almost forgot. Just a little side-show. The Galapagos Giant Tortoises. There are 25k Tortoises spread across these islands. There are so many Giant Tortoises: Wow. I never knew; their on the roads, on hikes, while off road biking.
I visit several Tourist locations showcasing the Tortoises. A good one, is the Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz – just a few minutes’ walk from my hotel. Another is in the Highlands of Santa Cruz – about 30 minutes outside town.
One Tortoise experience of mine was the perfect ‘authentic’ Galapagos encounter. - I’m biking off-road, a trail along the southern coast of Isabela Island; two Giant Tortoises block my path – I wait for them to move on, then squeeze by..…and smile to myself. Just a Normal afternoon in the Galapagos.
From Santa Cruz, I book a Ferry crossing to Isabela – the largest island of the Galapagos. But its town; Puerto Villamil is the smallest – just 3000 residents. Dirt roads thru downtown, no stoplights or signs - with the only hardtop roads leading to the Sierra Negro Volcano highlands. Life off the grid.
I travel the paved road to hike the Sierra Negro Volcano. A scenic 4 hour hike; the fast-pace was a challenge …it was a group tour unfortunately, and rushed the day… I needed another hour. But I loved hiking along the Cauldron Rim of this active Volcano – last erupting in 2019. Lava fields and stunning views of the Pacific. Good stuff.
Still on Isabela, I squeeze in another day of snorkeling and exploring the Southern coast by boat. I visit the Tunnelles; a stunning labyrinth of volcanic arch’s with ‘canals’ criss crossing – it’s a huge lava field at the ocean’s edge – absolutely fascinating geology.
The captain navigates a Tunnelles passage and we climb among the rocks.. Blue Footed Booby’s entertain up close.. several doing a courtship dance – they ignore the tourists… Along with the visit to Tunnelles, I snorkel several areas along the Southern coastline. One site was packed with Green Sea Turtles…..another Sea Horses…in shallow water – just 2m – fun snorkel !!!
Only one more Day on Isabela … so I find a bike-rental shop. A great last-second decision. The off-road trail, just outside the town is not to be missed. At the end of the bike trail is the Wall of Tears; the remnants of an old penal colony. The afternoon bike takes 3 hours – stopping to check-out Iguana’s or birds or Tortoises. This coastline has the best beaches anywhere in the Galapagos – idyllic.
Time to Pack-up; another Ferry back to Santa Cruz. Hold on…it’s a wild bumpy ride. Four 200hp engines, a covered speed boat, about 20 passengers....we fly (bounce) across the Ocean to the next island.
Galapagos Ferry crossings are adventures: Be prepared for a series of $1 transactions – I’ve saved-away several $1 US coins (the best option) …. The extra Water Taxi and Port fee’s can not be paid in advance…they are in addition to the Ferry Ticket – cash only.
The short Water Taxi to the Ferry’s (ocean going speed boats) is a lesson in chaos. Be ready, pay attention, get in the proper queue, check your luggage… be smart, be careful boarding, cross with only a tiny luggage – don’t be an idiot.
One last night in Santa Cruz, with dinner and walk of the town. I’ll miss this place, I feel at home here.
The following morning is a Big travel day – leaving the Galapagos. A 45min taxi to the port at the north of Santa Cruz. Then a short ferry to the next island, Baltra. And still yet another transfer – by bus, and finally the airport. Even leaving the Galapagos is an adventure!!!
I fly back to the mainland Ecuador and the Quito airport… a layover … a lounge with WiFi…. Civilization ..… Then onto Columbia to a visit an old friend in Bogota.
Just over three weeks in the islands. I saw a ton of the Galapagos! Diving remote corners few travel.
Just Darwin and me. The Galapagos is a place of places.
Ask Charles – He’ll confirm the details of my story. 😊
I’ll be sharing photos and memories of these islands for months.
….and scheming my return.
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I blog of Quito and Ecuador’s mainland separately. Quito and the Andes are a great addition to any visit to the Galapagos … Take a look at that separate Blog if you have the time and interest to explore Ecuador. It’s an adventure. Ask Charles
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