With great trepidation, I jump to India.
It’s time for me to explore this enigma. This giant.
After employing hundreds of Indian citizens. Working with hundreds more, hearing a hundred stories of travel to India,,,,,my enthusiasm for visiting here is not the highest. Actually, I’ve been avoiding this visit.
But the time is now. Time to learn what life in India is really like. Time for an education. A 10 day visit. Another solo unscripted adventure.
Hold on to your hat.
India has 1.4 billion people. Yes,,that’s billion. Tied with China. And I’m only visiting a few of its biggest cities. So my experiences here are limited. More like a visit to NYC and Miami … and thinking you traveled the US. – NOT!
First stop; Mumbai. Well, for me – it will always be Bombay. India changed the name of Bombay to Mumbai back in 1995. With 27 million humans packed into this city – it’s one big mess.
My home state in the US: Florida. – only has a population of 22 million. An interesting comparison. Bombay is packed with cars, mog, trash, litter, pollution - 27 million people worth. 10x the pollution to the air and water and streets than can be found in the entire 4th largest state in the US. …. And Bombay is just one city in India. Let that sink in!
I’m overwhelmed by Bombay straight-off. Few places make me feel that way….but this is intense, chaotic, relentless. Stepping outside the hotel is a lesson in survival. What have I gotten myself into? I have a hotel,,,,but no plan… time to figure that out.
For the first few days,, all I could think of was – WHEN DO I LEAVE ?
Patience, I remind myself. You’re an explorer. Relax, explore,,find the good-spots…find India’s charm…..
Trust-me on this: Finding India’s charm is easier said than done!! Eventually I succeed – but wow, I worked for it. Anyone that says different has not traveled India solo….instead, they have traveled it on a tour, with an escort .. with a body-guard, at 5* hotels, sheltered from India’s reality.
***
My Mumbai airport arrival was normal; aside from some trouble tracking down an ATM that worked (several where broken), an unusual Taxi booking process … otherwise nothing unexpected. Onto my hotel.
That’s where normal stops in India. Even the taxi ride is an event…. As I select a taxi,,I must chose - With or Without A/C.. OK, that’s new. The Taxi ride to my hotel is like finding a needle in a haystack. The driver doesn’t know English and doesn’t have a Smart-phone… and no Map…no highways, only city chaos. He has a general idea of my hotel location…. he gets directions from his friend at the airport,,,and stops several times along the way asking directions to my hotel..
Amazingly, an hour later.. he finds it!! I thank him. Deep breathe, I’m in India.
My hotel: A 3 star….. or so TripAdvisor says. Anywhere else in the world, this hotel would struggle getting 2 stars. But its location is excellent. Just one block from the GateWay to India. This area of the city might be called Old-Bombay….and was ground zero during the British Colonization days.
Sweltering heat, packed littered roads, Taxi’s honking, noise-noise-noise – it never stops. My ears ring. Street food everywhere – it appears everyone lives on street food in Bombay?
The Sidewalks are largely unusable … I walk in the streets half-the time…dodging cars and buses as they honk. It’s a miracle I’m not hit. Truly, this is chaos.
Everywhere, Giant billboards of Modi – India’s President, advertising the G20 summit that will occur in New Delhi this September. Not sure exactly why it’s advertised so heavily. National Pride I might guess.
I totally ‘fail’ finding a decent restaurant the first night. Only street food.. but the following days I’m organized and locate several perfect choices – including a few classic Indian cuisine dinners– try Delhi Darbar - packed with exotic flavors. Patience Bruce.
Day or night, the area around the Gateway to India is packed with tourists…99% are Indian’s taking selfies. The Gateway to India is an Arch overlooking the bay – ulgy ugly by day,,,,OK looking at night – (they light it up and pipe-in music). It’s a moving street fair on the surrounding streets…at the foot of the Taj Mahal Palace (a 5 star hotel). – don’t miss the show.
I walk to Leopold Café for an espresso – a few blocks from my hotel. Leopold’s is famous for the 2008 Terrorist attack that began there. Terrorist killed 175 and wounded 300 that day. Machine guns and grenades. They traveled by boat, directly from Pakistan to Mumbi …they didn’t like Indians. It’s a history lesson everyone should remember.
OK..time to really explore. I wander Colaba (area around my hotel), North and South of the Gateway – still searching for that famous Indian charm. …not-yet.
Onto ‘The Museum’ .. aka Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya … what a mouthful.. who picked that name ? What were they thinking??
The Museum was outstanding!!! Best experience of my stay in Bombay. Of-coarse, tracking down a Starbucks was kinda good too! Maybe it’s a tie.
Exploring the streets around the Gateway at night is a must-do. I never see the streets without people filling every walkway – this is India - TII. Hard to describe street life as ‘charming’, but it’s definitely entertaining. Hawkers, tourists, taxi, light-show on the Gateway, scenic boats in the harbor. And bloody hot,,,, 8am or 8pm – it doesn’t matter!!
The hawkers target me everywhere.. They see a foreigner, it’s time to sell. Its survival. Some of the hawkers are OK with just a No… but most ignore my No Thank you….. and charge ahead with their sale attempt…. India’s motto should be: Eat or be eaten. How can it be any other way here?
Unfortunately, the pressure to survive results in a negotiating game for the hawkers. Negotiating is normal many places around the planet..so that’s not unique.. but I fail to see the logic in attempting to sell a 3 hour walking tour of the Slums for $122US …. when the average wage is < $2/hour. .. it they even can find a job!! I walk away, explore solo – authentic.
Still exploring Bombay; I find my way to Jehangir Art exhibit – just local art for-sale ..…. Take a photo of the Rajabai Clock Tower, stop by St. Thomas Cathedral – its Easter today (that was refreshing and wonderful),,,, I get to see a few minutes of a Bollywood film production in the streets – kinda cool … And dozens of street markets. I never find a mall or any indoor shopping area – strange. The Markets that I see are just on the sidewalks, forcing you to push thru the human traffic ….. I never discover a true central market in Bombay. Not sure there is one around here.
Well, it’s back to the Airport, another Taxi - 900r and another flight. At-least I can say I’ve survived Bombay. Maybe I need a T-shirt.
New Delhi is next. … interesting Indian airport factoid: Business class at the airports have a separate security line. Haven’t seen that before.
Select a Taxi in New Delhi … ‘pre-paid’ Taxi in India means…. you pay at the airport,,,,not directly to the Taxi driver.. the driver just drives. In New Delhi, maybe I picked an expensive pre-pay….. its 1500r to my Delhi hotel…
I upgrade my hotel in New Delhi to Radisson Blu.. a 4*, about 1000x nicer 😊 Easy short Taxi ride to Connaught Place area and my hotel. Past dozens of beautiful Embassy buildings, on wide well landscaped roads…. I never saw anything like this in Bombay… this is a major upgrade. Good choice Bruce!!
Not to be out-done by Bombay; New Delhi has 33 million people – insane. How is it possible to feed them? Well, maybe they don’t – plenty of homeless begging for food as I move around the city… people sleeping on the sidewalks..just about anywhere.
My first full day in New Delhi… I explore by Tuk Tuk. I dislike the negotiating process of Tuk Tuk rides .. but negotiation and over-charging is so ingrained in the culture.. its unavoidable. I enjoy the rides..but feel ripped every time I use them. I end up paying 200r for most hops around Old Delhi. Still.. its worth it. If you know the system or are local … it’s more like 20-50r per/ride.
This afternoon’s adventure is closer to the ‘TV’ version of India. Non-stop traffic, horns,,relentless hawkers, begging children – and always more negotiations.
Watch for pickpockets .. keep a hand on your wallet and phone… careful careful.
…begging children…touching me,,,,pawing at me,,,,even while in the Tuk Tuk - at a traffic intersection…they surround my Tuk Tuk,, begging for money, money for food. .. young 4-5-6yo - ages that should be in school…but instead on the streets begging. Even in Africa I haven’t experience this pressure.
They hang on the Tuk Tuk as it drives off…still begging. Till the next intersection…they finally give up, hopping off … maybe its territorial – not sure.
I give a few children some Rupee’s. But they are everywhere at-times. My few Rupees can’t be helping here. Walking solo thru some intersections .... they will see me coming… at least one will chase after me.. at times you have to be rude to them. I’m forced into it.. they never take NO for an answer…
And if it’s not the challenging experience of the children… it’s the adult hawkers … As I walk to a coffee shop, or dinner… Always, every 1-2 minutes, an Indian gentleman will casually begin walking next to me… as if by random chance they are going in my direction. They strike up a conversation, a normal polite Hello – Where are you from? … but it always leads to … How can I help you? Where are you going? I know a good bazaar for souvenirs. Need a Tuk-Tuk ride? Look at my luggage store Sir?
I must say No Thank you 1000x. It’s exhausting being a target here. It’s not dangerous per-say, but the hawkers can become relentless and pushy. Once or twice they follow me – not cool…. I’m forced to assert myself.
..onto the adventure…
I walk around the Red Fort… an impressive sandstone fort of ancient Mughal Emperors. It’s a calm beautiful walk outside the fort (the only part open to the public) ..…. I’m confused about this experience… I enter thru the exit (where my Tuk Tuk dropped me)… a guard there waves me in. cool, thank you.. Later as I exit the Fort’s grounds (from the entrance?), I see a ticket counter… It says foreigners w/ museum 900r….. but I’ve never paid.. I don’t attempt to enter the museum… did I just rip them off ? I never find out.
… I then walk 30-35 minutes south,,,thru hot hectic streets…past vegetable markets on the sidewalks…litter/trash is everywhere, more chaos,,,another dozen Tuk Tuk’s insisting on me using them. I say no thank you another 100x.. eventually I must give up on polite.
Pushing on to the Gandhi National Museum..…with free entrance - almost no one there - it is a totally authentic experience. A relaxed ‘real’ place. Lots of photos of Gandhi.. famous quotes on the walls … and some of his possessions. Like a spoon or plate he once used…. But also, one of the bullets that killed him at the age of 78 … in 1948, and a blood stained shawl he wore… when Assassinated. The world is not fair or just or nice. A Tragedy.
Still walking on, just another 10 minutes is Gandhi’s Memorial.. Raj Ghat .. his grave. Free entrance. The memorial is very interesting. It is a large beautiful park…..with a central mound,,with his grave in the center.. The entire memorial is very impressive…yet at the same time, modest. Very well done.
Hopping in yet another Tuk Tuk… another negotiation … it’s a ride to the Jama Masjid Mosque – main entrance.
Thru a sea of colorful tarp-tented stalls ...... with hundreds of vendors,,, Off with my shoes for the Mosque. 20r to the ‘shoe-watcher’ …… then a guy gets 300r from me for entry to the mosque ..… not sure if it was a rip off.?? A Big wall-mounted sign said 300r … so I paid.. but I don’t see others paying - I think he just tricked me ☹.
Finally - I’m in. A beautiful plaza and minarets… old-school style. A worthy visit. I always enjoy visiting Mosques.
Another Tuk Tuk adventure and I’m back to my hotel.. Enough Enough. Hot, the sun blazing… I need to rest-up for tomorrow’s adventure…… India’s gem – The Taj.
*****
OK, now for the holy grail of India. The iconic Taj Mahal.
I’ve booked a 1-day tour of Agra from New Delhi. It is a long 14 hour day, hot and event packed – but 100% worthy. …. A good plan.
The city of Agra and its famous Taj Mahal are about 200km south of New Delhi. I arrange to travel by Train.. An authentic Indian experience just by it-self. I select the First Class A/C cabin --- an absolute must for foreign tourists. Chaotic train stations, but interesting. Not as crowded as Japan… so that is cool.
Finally Agra.. I am immediately taken to the Taj by my arranged tour company. I have a fantastic guide, who knows every detail of its history. Very impressive.
Deep breath… Ahh, the Taj is worthy.. More beautiful than I imagined. Photos can not capture its majesty. It’s a piece of Art, pretending to be a building. A mausoleum, a monument… but for me; It’s an Art sculpture.. The largest most beautiful one I’ve ever seen.
Pushing on, I visit nearby Agra Fort. A crazy huge fort of the ancient Mughal empire. It’s unexpected, I had no idea. It rivals the Forbidden city of China. What a place!
And one last stop in Agra; Baby Taj. Another mausoleum, with many similar design features.
Last, A refreshing late lunch; then back to the train station. It is a long day, but I get to see and touch a top 10 world wonder. Ahh, another check-list experience.
*****
I continue to explore Connaught Place area around my hotel. Thousands of shops, bazars, street markets, restaurants, entertainment venues … all surrounding a ring of city-streets with a central park green-area. A well designed and easily navigated part of New Delhi. A perfect location to explore New Delhi and learn a slice of Indian life.
Every culture, every country is unique. Each teach lessons. Here, Men (and woman) often walk with holding hands/fingers, arm in arm, or with an arm over a friends shoulder – normal.
Standing close in a queue, touching the person in front of you is normal...they don’t live by the personal body-space we are accustomed to in the US. … and so cutting a queue, out maneuvering the guy in front of you is normal behavior…behavior that is rude for me… It feels aggressive, inconsiderate,,,even more than I’ve experienced in Vietnam or China…. but this is Indian culture!!! Not the US… get used to it Bruce.
Women have red tattoo dots or red stickers on their forehead – they are married. Everyone still reads newspapers, in the hotels, at the airport, coffee shops. Tuk Tuk’s are 10 deep sometimes, but you need to book an Uber if you want a Taxi…none are around.
Persistence Bruce ..…. a million shops and street vendors later … I track down my go-to souvenir…. A new Patch for my backpack. Hard earned, with a new appreciation for Indian’s that survive this race. It’s a hard existence here, a lesson every day. 1.4 Billion people will do that !!
*****
An Indian here explained the thinking of the Indian hawkers and beggars … he explained that when I say NO, or NO THANK YOU,,,, when I shake my head NO - to the hawker; it’s my signal that negotiations have started.
Correct - I said ‘started’, not ended.
He additional explained; that to the hawker – ‘NO’ means you want a lower price or a different service…..so let’s start negotiations.
For an American; NO means No – a very very different thinking pattern.
My Indian friend then suggests that ignoring them is the only option. But I can’t accept this custom… I can not be that impolite. I must recognize their existence. Acknowledge them. Smile at them.
I try to say NO Thank You ….and continue walking.
Often that fails and I must assert myself ☹ - I don’t enjoy that moment.
For me; This important cultural insight is the single most valuable piece of knowledge I gain here in India. I wish I had understood this long long ago!!! India 101.
This insight explains many of my past experiences with my Indian employee’s. It explains the many past experiences I’ve had working side-by-side with Indian citizens.
This core Indian communication custom of ‘NO’ as the beginning …. is so very-very different than typical Americans. So very different than myself. Work assignments, prices, due-dates, quality of product…. Are ALL negotiated; and the starting point is NO.
Ahhh. The English language can be so complex.
****
And Oh!! I did find some Indian charm. In the strangest of places. An Italian restaurant in New Delhi. Just a normal Mid-Level restaurant, filled with happy young Indians. With very-good Italian food, great service and ambiance. India has a lot of a lot.
Onward.
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