I’m back in Hawaii. My fourth visit - But this time, I’m here to see Kauai.
Every time I speak to someone of Hawaii,, to someone that knows Hawaii.
I share that I’ve been underwhelmed with my experiences there. That visits to Maui, to Oahu, to the Big Island; well, they where just OK.
… and predictable, every time… that person responds; Have you been to Kauai ?
Well, No I haven’t. …
So, I’m giving Hawaii one more chance. A week in Kauai.
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I arrive to Honolulu on a red-eye, coming in from American Samoa. A 5.5 hour flight.. Check-in was a mess. Only 1 or 2 flights a week out of American Samoa,, so I should have known. It’s a packed airplane. Uggg. Should have upgraded..
After a quick immigration passthru, a 4 hour lay-over in Honolulu, Starbucks, and a 30 minute island-hopper flight .. I’m in Kauai, back in the 50 .... Pheww, that was some work.
I rent a car from Avis and hit the road. Another 50 minutes .. I’m at my hotel in Poipu, on the southern coast of Kauai. Time to crash!! I'm spent.
I’ve arranged an Airbnb type rental. Hideaway Cove, a block off Poipu Beach. It’s an old house that has been converted to rental units. Each with full kitchens, beautiful porches, well appointed.. looks like I made a good choice. ‘cheap’ by Hawaii standards, but not inexpensive.
The location turned out to be spot-on for my needs. 3 nights.. Should have been longer!!! I quickly realize - Southern Kauai is brilliant.
Sadly, there is rain every day of my Kauai visit. Oh well. I just work around the hassle. Mornings are almost always clear blue sky's…. So Bruce, get-out and explore.
First up, the main attraction. Waimea Canyon. Southern Kauai. And wow!! It delivered. Many times, I find that famous places that have been over hyped - can be a disappointment. But not Waimea Canyon. It’s the real deal!
The Canyon road is about 40 minutes from my hotel. An easy drive.
And WOW.. the views of the Canyon are fabulous. An incredible waterfall in the distance…. Breathtaking. The Canyon road has 5-8 lookout points .. and 10-12 hiking trails. Many of the trailheads are difficult to get to.. and require a 4 wheel vehicle.. The mud puddles where just too deep for me in my rental SUV… it’s a good rental.. but not 4-wheel.
Still, I find 2 trailheads and enjoyed a few hours of hiking. I’m not really prepared for big hiking today anyway. This plan is plenty good and a great experience. I spend 3-4 hours there; I may have gotten ‘lucky’ with my visit…. The rain kept many visitors away.. I’ll bet sometimes times, Waimea Canyon is packed and the experience might suck.
Parking is limited.. but just $10 for the day … plus $5 per person.. You pay a kiosk, at any of the parking locations. Easy. No additional park entrance fee - that was cool.
After hiking Waimea Canyon, I stumble upon Fort Elizibeth. A Russian curiosity - hidden Hawaiin history. Fort Elizibeth was an 1815 Russian fort.... built before Americans were established here in Kauai.
Success!!! I’ve been to Waimea Canyon. Kauai is looking pretty good about now.. I’m impressed. It’s hard to believe this is Hawaii. Waimea really is the Grand Canyon of Hawaii… as Mark Twain said.
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Food is a hassle in Kauai, as it can be on the other Hawaiian islands. There are limited choices for restaurants,,,and often I find them closed or with short hours,, and always crazy expensive. I resort to a grocery store for ‘dinner’ once or twice while here... or the food trucks. Maybe being more organized would have helped? .. ☹
Best food I found was a fantastic breakfast at Kalaheo Café.. I would have eaten there every morning.. but it was packed my second attempt ...and then closed after that ... I’ll definitely target this cafe for breakfast anytime in South Kauai.
A take-away Taco shop near Poipu was good too. Saved me the first night.
The pizza restaurant in Koloa was so-so.. Crazy expensive for a sub-standard pizza.. But what did I expect, this is Kauai.
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Next morning; I make my way to Shipwreck Beach and the Maha’ulepu Heritage hiking trail. I’m blown away !!! If hiking Waimea Canyon yesterday wasn’t enough…. This Pacific cliff-side hike and beach top my expectations. OK... I’m a believer,,, Kauai is for real.
I feel hypnotized ,, the Heritage hike along the rugged coastline, with crashing waves is picture perfect… This is one of the best day hikes I’ve ever had. Several times I spot turtles just past the breakers, playing.. very cool.
And if the hiking wasn’t enough, the Shipwreck beach is over the top. Perfect 2m waves, on a pristine beach. Surfers and boogie boarders, body surfers,, this is heaven. I had to stop under the pines for an hour..taking it all in. I was stuck. A giant Hyatt hotel dominates the entire Shipwreck beach front.. with only limited public parking near-by … I got there early and was fortunate. I found a spot - Lucky me. The hotel looked amazing.. Yes,,, for $1200+/night – it better be.
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Adding an evening walk along the Poipu Beach Park cemented my impression of south Kauai. This beach is a 5 minute walk from my hotel room… and has good public parking available. It was busy with visitors.. (unlike the limited access of Shipwreck). Umbrellas, chairs, a playground for children, even an area to snorkel. The strangest sight there were 2 turtles, that came up onto the sandy beach.. to sleep. The turtle area was taped off to keep people back ... Guess this is normal here, but I’ve never seen that before. Strange and interesting - Humans and Green Sea Turtles sun bathing.
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Time to move.. I check out of Poipu and drive North. Heading to the North Coast of Kauai. I stop to see Wailua Falls… don’t skip!! ,, it’s beautiful and easy to visit … it made today a permanent memory.
I call a dive shop in the Northern part of Kauai.. hoping to arrange a last-second scuba dive.. And even stop at their dive shop. But no luck.. the shop is closed and I didn’t get a call back until the following day. My loss.. I should have committed to a dive plan earlier. This one is on me.. ☹ I just didn’t know my schedule here in Kauai.. I’m traveling moment by moment.. ..without a plan.. uggg.
I find a last second room in Princeville. 4 nights. Just outside Hanalei. Makai Club Resort. A timeshare condo. It's big,, but just a box without character. Still, the cheapest option around. Most places in Kauai are $600-900/night... Kauai is an expensive place to explore.
It took a day to get the vibe of Hanalei… but after I did, I didn’t want to leave. I walked the beach, with the mountains soaring above and cascading waterfalls.
The Hanalei scene is idyllic. Right out of Puff the Magic Dragon. The beach was cool,,but not insane.. what makes it so unique is the beach combined with mountains.. Wow ..... that's a picture..
The place to be in Hanalei would be a house on the first block along the beach. With the downtown restaurants/shops on one side and the Ocean on the other. The vibe is extraordinary. Maybe a month rental is possible ? I might like that.
Still in North Kauai - I add a fantastic hike to Queens Bath.. not far from my hotel. A steep muddy trail, leading to a series of pools on the ocean. Crashing waves over lava fields, forming calm pools for swimming.
Breathtaking… with homes up the steep cliffs, on a golf course, overlooking this scenic playground. OK, living here is almost behind imagination… wow.
Make sure to find Poke, and shaved ice. Scheule in more hiking, and swimming …. and diving might await me here yet. Next-time. Always next time.
Kauai went all to fast; I had a week but it evaporated.
For me, Kauai is 100x better experience than the other major Hawaiin islands. Yeah, Peral Harbor is a must!!! and visits to Oahu, and Maui and to the Big Island mandatory. But for my tastes; the rural, relaxed vibe of Kauai is best.. Add in the hiking and beaches there, and it really is a garden.
People that know Hawaii are right!!! Kauai is the real deal.. I'm a believer. Kauai wins and redeems all of Hawaii...
A week is gone; I’m back to the airport, return my rental car. Flying the short hop to Honolulu for a night at an airport hotel..... and then the long flight home to Florida the following day.
Beginning and Ending in Hawaii: I have just completed 5 months exploring the South Pacific and Southeast Asia in 2024. It’s never enough.
More is waiting. Jimmy, there’s still so much to be done.
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Thanks for reading my Kauai Travel Blog. I have a separate Blog on Oahu, Maui and the Big Island - Hawaii. Plenty to see there, but Kauai wins.
I do enjoy sharing Photos and Adventures .… Take a look. Thanks again!!
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