This is a Big-one. Wow, I made it to Laos. Cool.
Properly called: Lao Peoples Democratic Republic. LPDR
The thing that first hits-me, as I write this … How in hell am I going to share Laos in a short Blog ? there’s so much to say!!
I’m here for just 11 days. No-plan, no guide .. my favorite way to travel.. My visit should have been a month!!
Every adventure has its unique rhythm. Finding that rhythm is the secret journey. My Laos adventure starts slow…and finishes with powerful unimaged emotions and experiences. Laos can only be described as a hidden gem. Will I ever be lucky enough to return?
Landing in Vientiane was easy. Modern, huge airport. I did their simple online eVisa in advance, then a pre-arranged hotel transfer. I’m in. (arriving from Bangkok)
I used mostly Lao money (Kip) during my visit. US dollars are accepted, and often quoted for hotels, taxis and tours.. but I found day-day transactions where more easily done in Kip.. Hundreds of thousands of Kip.. 100,000 Kip is about $5 US.
Talking of Kip... Inflation has hit big here in Loa,, like everywhere it seems. I was at a local market (during my Homestay),, we buy eggs. 30 brown eggs - 70,000 Kip about $3.30US .... In the US, we are easily 3 or 4x that cost. But the interesting thing... is my Homestay host explains that just a few years ago, 30 eggs cost 20,000 Kip.. Eggs have more than tripled in cost in Laos over the last 3 years. 300+% inflation. How can the poor here afford
My arrival Vientiane hotel choice is the Crowne Plaza..upscale and great to collect myself from world travel .. but this capital city – Vientiane, has very little to offer. I explored by taxi a few Stupa’s and Temples, got to their Night Market and Morning Markets, strolled the Mekong riverwalk … I walked day and night around my hotel… totally safe.
But,,ummm. It is a complete bore. I booked 3 nights here. It could have been one. Use Vientiane as a rest stop… don’t expect a lot.
So that is the slow start in Laos… But every moment after that. Wow – the complete opposite.
Using an online 3ed-party, I purchase train tickets to Luang Prabang, located in Northern Laos. The Chinese have built a high-speed train from Vientiane all the way to China. The train was comfortable and fast. Reaching 160km, smooth, with big easy comfortable Train stations. Just taking one small bag is he plan .. leaving my dive gear in Vientiane – (don’t make the mistake of taking large luggage on trains !!) My tickets arrive with QR codes to my phone. Cool.
2-hours, heading north. Tracking the Mekong River into the Mountains. The train rushes thru dozens of tunnels, with beautiful views of the rural mountains, farmland and valleys. No trash, very clean landscapes and city-scapes.
I have another pre-arranged pickup at the arrival train station ... Not really needed here, there are plenty of taxis at the Train stations. (I used a random taxi on my return to Vientiane – easy).
I’m in the Historic district, the Mekong Riverview Hotel, Luang Prabang, Laos. This is one of the best town/tourist-centers that I’ve ever visited. How it could be better is beyond me. It is everything I love about travel.
I arrive with no plan, and only a room for a few nights. On the first afternoon I walk-in to a random tour operator on the main road. Here I purchase a private taxi for a day trip to a Waterfall, and a second 2-day trip to a Homestay.
My plan is coming together. Sometimes traveling without a plan, without guides … can backfire. That’s the chance I like to take. Yeah, I can sometimes miss-out. But wow, other times it’s pay-dirt. My Luang Prabang adventure was pure gold.
Everywhere in town are fantastic restaurants, coffee shops, Buddhist temples, Stupas, Boats rides on the Mekong for tours/dinner. I wander by foot mostly.. but my hotel has bikes.. so I use one every day. They also have a golf-cart that I use to drop me at the furthest point in the Historic District… where I would wander the Night Market each evening and find dinner… walking back along the Mekong to my hotel. A tough life. Dinners where $8-10 for outstanding choices. (just $2-3 for street food). Always Sticky Rice 😊 and amazing soups. Mostly Chinese tourists here .. maybe 70%. The balance are Europeans and Americans.
I was sure to not-miss the Buddhist Alms Giving ceremony in Luang Prabang. Starting early, @6am. People line the streets, as hundreds of Monks file past. Each collecting some pre-wrapped food or giant ball of Sticky Rice.. This is my first large-scale experience with this Ceremony. It was very quiet and calm. No parade or drums or music. Just calm at the break of dawn.
The weather here is perfect for my visit. It’s the dry season.. so the trees are not 100% green.. but the trade-off is worth it. The amazing temperature range in these mountains is shocking. It will be 60F (15C)in the early morning.. and reach 94F (35C) in the afternoon. 35F degree range. Wow.. that is amazing.
Yet with all that Luang Prabang has to offer.. adding a few trips outside the city is a must.. One of the easiest and best is the day trip to Kuang Si Waterfalls, about an hour taxi ride. It’s a magical place. Unimaginable beautiful falls and cascading terraces. Possibly the single most beautiful waterfall I have ever seen. Although not a giant like Victoria or Iguassu.. It’s turquoise water color, people swimming, all surrounded in jungle. Ahh,, never pass up a chance to see this place.
The waterfalls day trip adds a few ‘extras’. A wonderful Butterfly Garden, just near by.. Yeah, I never skip one of those. And an Asian Bear exhibit.. that seemed a little out of place, but still interesting… And on my way back to town, I had my driver stop at an Elephant riding/washing entertainment complex. I just took a few photos of the Elephants.. skipping the riding/washing!! What a day.
But the best highlight of my entire Laos adventure was a 2 day Homestay. I luckily book at the last second (Asiamyway.com) ,,,, It was amazing!!!
I travel by car with the host-owner,, to her small village about 2.5 hours north of Luang Prabang. Deep deep into the Mountains. The village, Muang Soune is on the Nam Ou River, a tributary to the Mekong.. This is off off the Grid 😊
Here I stayed with Khum, my host.. and her family. Uncles, sisters, children.. This is no tourist hotel.. It’s a real Lao home.
The home cooked meals where better than anything I had anywhere in Laos. The her village home requires a boat ride just to arrive. We stop at markets and select fish/pork/extras, walked rice fields, visit the village school, the local streets,, went fishing.. and just rested at her home and garden. I asked a million questions about Laos .. It was a once in a lifetime experience.. Khum is a National treasure for her country…. Definitely visit her if your in Laos.. Look her up at www.homestay-lao.com …. This is the real Laos.
Time just evaporated in Luang Prabang.. I return to my hotel here after the Homestay. A few more days of temples and markets,,,,finding a small piece of Laos art to take-home as a souvenir and a new travel patch. I don’t want to leave !!!
I return to Vientiane by train, take a taxi back to my hotel there… one final night in Lao, retrieving my dive gear.. All to soon I am leaving for another country.
Another airport, onward onward.
I came expecting something special.. and Laos surpassed even that high-expectation. This is truly a special place. Humble polite people. Very friendly and safe everywhere.. tons to explore. Very inexpensive..
I will be a luck man if I ever return. This is why I travel !!!
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