I’m in Burma, called Myanmar since 1989. I switch back and forth between the two names … old-school geography lessons are hard to break.
This blog starts in the middle of this adventure, where all good stories should. Time feels fluid in Burma; sometimes it stops – sometimes skips - sometimes disappears entirely.
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I take a deep breath .… and throw back a shot of Royal Grand Whiskey – an import step while working on Plan B
I’m 7 days into my visit of Burma … Today began with a car transfer from Lake Inle - depositing me at the home of a local Trekking Guide. I’m deep in the central Myanmar mountains, at a small town called Kalaw. Time to hike. Wow, Now .. I’m exploring Burma!!
For most of my travel arrangements in Burma I book classic tour guides and luxury hotels.. I’m unsure what to expect from this mysterious country, playing it safe ..
But for Trekking in Kalaw,, the real Burma. I am off-the-grid. I meet real people. Experience their daily life. Hear their stories. Ride motorbikes. Eat their food. This is why I travel!
My trekking guide is a sweetheart young woman – Aki. Who shared real Burma and gave me an adventure of a lifetime !!! She starts with us hitchhiking !! Crazy, I haven’t hitchhiked since I was 18yo.. We climb onto the back of commercial flatbed truck, hold onto PVC pipes for dear life,, and head to a deep mountain trail.
Hiking thru panoramic views of low mountain ranges, sharing tea and lunch in local villages…in their homes.. I love every second.
Parts of the trek are along railroad tracks..thru old British tunnels and trestles. Something out of old WWII Burma stories. Later in the day - It begins to rain,, limiting our trekking plan ... and we stop in a tunnel, along with a railway work crew.. waiting for the heaviest rain to pass.. The work crew men doing the heavy, honest work that make the planet run… I admire them. They offer a ride on their work-train…unfortunately, that adventure didn’t work out. Next time.
Our day of trekking ends late. It’s dark and raining.. Finding our way to a roadway …. there is no traffic this late …. Our plan to hitchhike back to town is not going to work … time for Plan B.
Aki finds a roadside food shop,.. we huddle under their porch – out of the rain .. and work plan B.
The owner offers a seat in his home. It feels impolite to refuse …. I find myself in the kitchen of his family. Only my guide speaks English. The shop owner's wife is cooking dinner over an open flame, their son sits across the table from me. Our light is by candle and flame.. It’s dark in the kitchen, but comfortable and warm. With smiling faces surrounding me.
The owner and son ask a few questions, my guide translates. A pint and glass appear on the table, I’m offered a shot of Whiskey… It would be rude to refuse… Plan B is coming together. Today is one surprise after another.
My time in Kalaw is authentic and raw. Exactly as I love travel. I lived a month of life in Myanmar in a single day. My adventure in Kalaw continues late into the night,,, finding my way to a bar near my hotel,,,, I meet more locals; other trekking guides, business owners, some Burmese travelers. I’m a curiosity here, I share my dive-photos and they teach me of Myanmar. A fair trade.
This Trekking day of adventure is too big to properly share on a blog .… too amazing to ever forget. I’m deeply grateful to my guide for one of the best experiences ever .... this is not the typical tourist experience. (Ever Smile Trekking… if your ever in Kalaw!!)
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Now: To the beginning of my Burma Story.
My flight to Myanmar arrives in Yangon – coming in from KL. Make sure you have your online eVisa.. no Visa on arrival here !! I have a prearranged airport transfer..not knowing what to expect .. The US Government advises against travel to Myanmar – due to ongoing civil conflict. Much of the country is not safe to travel. So,, I’ll be limiting my time here to tourist-safe destinations… Yangon is the start. The politics of Myanmar are complex and confusing. Currently, a Military coup controls the country.. what the future holds for Burma is a mystery to everyone.
The next day, I tour the major highlights of Yangon… formally Rangoon. The city center is dominated by many 100-150 yo British colonial buildings. It’s busy and active downtown. Trade on the street, uncrowded yet the restaurants are full ... sounds and smells, markets. Half the men wearing longyi … a type of skirt also warn in India. Betel (a stimulant like cocoa leaf) sold everywhere. Only a few security/army checkpoints.. none where too overwhelming. All felt normal… or as much as I can observe.
My visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda complex is definitely the highlight of Yangon. This pagoda is ginormous. Solid gold plated, with hundreds or thousands of gem-stones. The entire complex has hundreds of attached pagodas and Budda statues. It’s amazing.
I’m a unique visitor here. Many people want to take a picture next to me – smiling. Not many western tourists have been traveling to Myanmar … it has endured difficult political and civil chaos for the last 10 years. A tall skinny white guy stands out.. Everyone notices me.
I use Yangon at the start and close of my visit to Myanmar. Selecting the Wyndham Hotel, eating at restaurants just across the street… and generally just catching my breathe from fast paced travel. I need more time in Myanmar… I’ll know better on next visit.. My plan for Yangon was good,,but my time touring the interior of Myanmar was too-fast – that’s where I need more time!!
For my itinerary of Central Myanmar: I first jump to Lake Inle, then to trekking in Kalaw, then to Bagan, then a final Domestic flight back to Yangon. I miss a visit to the city of Mandalay – I’ll make sure to add that next visit.
My trip to Lake Inle starts with a domestic flight from Yangon to Helo.. then a 2 hour car transfer to the Lake. Here, I board a long-boat with a guide and boatman. We fly along this beautiful peaceful mountain lake. Just gorgeous. Bamboo stick houses everywhere. Floating gardens and a dozen villages to visit. Each with a unique specialized product. Blacksmiths, Silversmiths, boat builders, tabaco manufactures, fisherman… And always here in Lake Inle, a visit to their 5 Budda Pagoda. I love how each pagoda and Buddha has its own special story.
My hotel here on Lake Inle (and another sister hotel in Bagan) is the Aureum Palace – spectacular, luxurious hotel. I could have stayed a week at each of them!
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My story is skipping again,,,, time is fluid in Myanmar ... I finish with my visit to Bagan.
From my trekking adventure of Kalaw… I have a long 6 hour car transfer,,, out of the mountains into the central plains of Myanmar.
Here I find Bagan - a UNESCO World Heritage Site.. Bagan should be on everyone’s bucket list. It’s a magical place.
I spend several days here… Resting up, touring Pagodas, climbing look-out towers for panoramic views. Bagan may be the most peaceful place I’ve ever visited. The power of 3000 Pagodas … it everywhere. Many 1000 yo. It’s magnetic yet peaceful at the same time, this place actually seems to change everything it touches.
One morning, outside my hotel room…. Overlooking 3-4 Pagodas … two Hot-air Ballons float by. I don’t normally want to ride one… but today, I wish I had. It doesn’t feel real here .. This is definitely not Kansas..
Another morning, I walk to near by Pagodas,, They are invaluable,, and open for my entry. Buddha’s often maintained within them.. other Pagodas nearby crumbling. They all are incredible.
I leave Bagan with a painting of Phayar thone Su Pagoda’s by a local artist.. and also track down a new travel patch in a market. My souvenirs. I will never forget Bruma.
In Bagan,,,I learn that George Orwell lived and wrote his first books while living in Burma.. ‘Burmese Days’ becomes my next book!! It’s already downloaded, and I’ve started reading it. Cool. How did I not know ?? I love leaving a country with another book to read. I strive to learn something every day... Burma is my teacher today.
One last experience to share: While on a car transfer.. My trekking guide Aki notices a Shaun Buddhist temple is having a ceremony for new Monks. We stop, are invited into the temple; we are provided outstanding local foods and hospitality.. No fee, just Buddhist generosity.. to a complete total stranger. It's
a small example of the kindness that can be found in Burma.
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My visit only touches the surface of Myanmar. This ancient land is still trying to form itself into a 21st century country… the process is not easy.
My onward travel shorted my Burma visit .. sometimes that happens as I travel without a plan. But next-time,, I will stop in Bagan and Lake Inle for some peace.. they are wonderful places to rest-up and collect your thoughts.
One thing for sure. The strength of Burma is its people. This always seems that is the truth of poor struggling countries… The Myanmar people remind me of Lao people. Polite, gentle, mostly Buddhist. All dreaming of a better future. All knowing that will not come easy.
Goodbye Burma
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