I drop into this South Pacific oasis at a strange time. Corona Virus panic has gripped to planet.
Here, there have been no cases yet. And while it is the topic of discussion, the tourist options still seem open. They did scan me for a fever upon arrival – but didn’t make a big deal of it. Immigration was a breeze. Maybe I’ve found a safe harbor as the world implodes.
New Caledonia is largely undiscovered by tourists. Just 100k visiting/year. Most of those French and Japanese, with a few Aussie’s and Kiwi’s in the mix – but not many! I don’t meet any American’s exploring here.
NC has two very interesting facts; 1) It is home to 25% of the worlds Nickel 2) It’s Barrier Reef is the second largest in the world (just Australia’s Great Barrier being larger)
NC’s nickel has made this island wealthy by most standards. Its average per-capita income is just as high as NZ’s. Amazing. Roads; the capital city of Noumea; Hotels and infrastructure are all way-more organized and modern then I expected. Who knew?
I luck out with a perfect hotel location in Noumea, on the Bais des Citrons (Lemon Bay). Restaurants, a beautiful beach and expresso out my door step.
My last minute travel plan failed to book a dive center my first full day here, so I caught the city bus to downtown and walked the streets there. Nothing very interesting,, with the exception of their Coconut Park in the center of town. There I found a group of chess fans – playing Giant sized chess in the park. My highlight of the day; watching their enthusiasm for the match – too cool! I love a good Chess match. Island love can simplify chaos. No wonder I love the tropics.
I succeed in booking 2 great dives the next day. One just inside their Barrier Reef (the lagoon) the other just outside the Reef. The zodiac trip out to the reef was long 35-40 minutes, but it worth it. The lagoon dive had amazing beautiful coral, several sharks and easy diving. The outside dive was a high current event…but I was packed with huge grouper and turtle. All the fish seemed huge and happy, very cool dive. Loved every minute. Puts the craziness of Corona Virus on hold for a few hours. Sanity returns.
The following day a baby Cyclone blew in. Everyone staying inside most of the day. With my travel plans turned upside-down, I spend a big part contemplating what do next. Still booking my time here in NC, but what next? Worried of being locked-down somewhere. World travel has never been so strange. My Philippines flights and Tubbataha live aboard dive boat have been cancelled. I can’t even get to my hotel there. No travel insurance…wonder how that’s going to work out?
The following day, I head to the Ferry for my crossing to Ile Des Pins – a remote out island of New Caledonia. Opps!! The ferry is canceled. Back to the hotel…then to the domestic airport. I have no ticket for the island hop…but I get on standby. Walla .. as the French say, I make it on board the 25 minute flight. Wow.. living the adventure. I arrive to a tiny runway and small building. Something closer to Africa then a tourist destination. With some patience, I manage a transfer to my hotel – co-located with a dive shop. Tomorrow I dive.
The hotel is a ghost. I’m almost the only guest. But I’m here to dive – no worries. And dive I do the next day. Spectacular is an understatement. Packed with crazy magnificent coral, anemone, fans, tropical fish. Wow’ie - Life should be so generous to allow my return here one day. Packed with vibrant life. I dive the northern most barrier islands of Ile des pins with Kunie Scuba Center. A Frenchman and his Japanese wife own this shop. The dive masters and boat skipper was great – I’d dive with them 1000 times. This is a dive paradise. So many more sites to explore. But Corona has other plans. I must depart this island – back to the pebble (New Caledonia main island). What will come next? The authorities insist on my leaving.
…on no, Corona chaos. I decided to blog about that separately from this travelogue. (read about New Caledonia – authorities insist on my leaving, quarantine life, living with ourselves.)
Well, I’m finally getting back to this blog. Weeks after exiting New Caledonia – from home in the States. My finally 2+ weeks in New Caledonia were in lockdown. First in a hotel in downtown Noumea, where I was evicted (again), then in a beautiful high-rise condo on Bais des Citron (part of Noumea). Trapped in the Condo, only permitted to walk to the grocery store. Ahh, very strange to talk with no-one all day. I did have the good fortune of sharing my condo on the first day with another diver I met on Iles des pins. A beautiful young girl from Bavaria Germany. But she moved onto a Air B&B that she had arranged previously.
The highlight of my time in lockdown was on day-one, before full lockdown. I went swimming in the Bay just outside the condo. Refreshing, inspiring oceans. – but soon to be forbidden by lockdown.
I blogg’ed and wrote and read a ton during lockdown. Some of it posted. Lots of philosophy, and I may have discovered a framework for a book – we’ll see if its worthy.
Somehow, with the help of the US State department, I boarded a flight to Tokyo – then onto Dallas and home to Orlando. An old friend’s (Lynn) son helping arrange my passage.
I had hoped New Caledonia would be a safe harbor during the Corona Chaos – but sadly, that was not the case. Even here panic set-in. So my chance to explore and dive was cut short. More to see here, hope I get the chance again!!! My onward travel halted for now. Home in Florida for now. Dreaming of my next adventure.
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