I find myself in another hidden paradise. Well,,,hidden might not be the best description. But still – How many people could find Palau on a map ?
Regionally it is part of Micronesia. But, Palau is not a member of the Federated States of Micronesia… The Republic of Palau is an independent country,,, yet wholly dependent on US aid; provided under a treaty (compact). Palau citizens are free to travel, live and work in the US. Additionally, the US builds roads, schools and hospitals here in Palau. The citizens of Palau seem to like the arrangement. Interestingly the treaty comes up for a vote this year.. Extend the deal or not ?
Palau - Hidden in plain sight.. But not hidden during WWII. These islands where the site of a major US-Japan battle. On Peleliu, the most southern island of this 300 island nation was a strong hold for Japan and hosted several air strips. The US (General Douglas MacArthur) needed to take these islands during WWII before re-taking The Philippines and moving North on Japan.
For me, Palau is another lesson on WWII. Reminding me of my previous big dive adventure in Chuuk (Truk Lagoon – Micronesia). Palau was a important link in Japan’s supply chain as it moved south to the Soloman islands…
Getting to Palau – I travel first to Guam (from Chuuk, Micronesia) for a short stop.. Guam is a busy busy island, packed with US Navy and Army personnel. The US’s first line of defense in the Pacific. Double TSA agents greet my arrival.
I’m in Palau to dive. But arranging some down-time on the island first. I settle in at a big-hotel (Palasia), catering to Japanese and Taiwanese visitors.. I’m the only American here. Its location was great for near-by restaurants, including outstanding Sushi at Tori Tori. Compared to Chuuk, Palau is a modern full service destination. My entire visit here has been first-rate. Definitely a destination I would return to.
Kicking off my Palau dive adventures.. I join a local dive shop for a day of diving (Fish n Fins). Just 3 dives with these guys – and unfortunately, under terrible conditions. Rain almost every day during my first week here. Rain and winds stir up the seas, causing visibility to be poor and challenging for photography. Ahhh, it can’t be perfect weather everyday of an adventure. Still,, my day-dives were a great intro to Palau. Sharks and vibrant reefs, packed with fish. Lots of everything!! The reefs are fantastic here!!! Wow. I was expecting good diving.. and Palau delivered.
One of my first free days here, I rented a car and explored the main island. A perfect plan. Empty roads, empty hiking trails. The highlight of my day was discovering Stone Monoliths in the far Northern point of the island. A beautiful 30 minute mountain jungle hike,,, leads to collection of ‘rocks’. Many are carved heads … it’s a mini Easter Island – an ancient Polynesian archeological site. Some of these carved ‘rocks’ are over 2500 years old.. Crazy. And they aren’t even from Palau.. but where imported from either Samoa or Tonga - How is that even possible 2000+ years ago? A time where the Tongan empire controlled all of Polynesia, including these islands of Palau. Almost impossible to image. Must have been aliens….. Part of the Secret 😊
Adding a second jungle hike, I reach an isolated waterfall. Nothing spectacular, but another WWII interesting factoid. US Seabee’s built a small railway thru this jungle to access the water.. Palau has water!! - few islands near here have even a drop.
Back to my diving adventure.
Although the weather was a challenge (often raining),,, the diving was spectacular.
Sharks by the dozen.. One giant Bull was the highlight. But plenty of Macro life and tons of reef fish. The Napolean Wrasse and Bumphead Parrotfish where crazy cool too. Mandrin fish, nudibranch, razor fish, endless reef fish.. I had over 900 photos from diving Palau.
And if all the marine life and reefs weren’t enough.. Diving here includes some amazing caverns and caves. Some dives you surface inside the caves .. removing your scuba regulator to beath the cavern air and be amazed by the Stalactites. Surreal. A National Geographic experience.
Some of the caverns have huge tunnels you drop into – exiting at 100 feet.. others are pass-throughs. Fun diving.. and a great addition to the overall experience here. I even had a great wreck dive… Palau has it all!!
I’ve arranged another live aboard dive boat - The Aggressor II. A week off the grid diving. But - Unlike many live aboard's, the Palau Aggressor trip includes two land tours. The first of Peleliu island… A breath-taking memorable experience. A WWII battlefield. The US marines and Army fought the Japanese for months here. 1,000 US soldiers killed. 11,000 Japanese soldiers killed. The Japanese would not give up.. hiding and fighting from caves. A total of 34 Japanese soldiers did survive the battle,, hiding in a cave for 2 years. Insane!!! Finally they realized the war was over.
Rusting tanks, LVT's, Japanese light tanks, flame throwers, machine guns.. Exploring the 1000 man cave … where 1000 Japanese died. Orange beach, White beach.. This was a deadly battlefield. My son Rain shared a book he had read about the battle on Peleliu (The Old Breed) … I had never even heard of Peleliu at the time .. just now I downloaded that book,,, next on my Kindle reading list 😊
The second land tour was to Jellyfish Lake.. A famous Palau snorkeling experience. An inland fresh water lake,, packed with jellyfish. Hiking there with snorkeling gear.. I love the Jellies !!! These don’t sting… Beautiful space aliens !!
Diving in Palau is centered around the famous Rock Islands. These islands are now a UNESCO World Heritage site.. Stunningly beautiful. My dive boats would fly by these rocks!!! Covered in vegetation. Only 8-9 islands of Palau have people.. the others a just big Rocks… Wall dives, Reef dives, Wreck dives, High current drift dives, night dives --- The Rock islands are insanely beautiful and born for diving..
26 total dives here in Palau,,,,that makes almost 50 for January – a great start for 2024.
With my diving program complete….
I return to my Koror, Palau hotel … a few days there to catch my breath,, update my Website, work on onward travel… and write this blog.
Slow travel is the plan. It’s the journey,, not the finish.
I’m practicing the art of slow living..
...my niece Ashley taught me that phase … and I love it 😊
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