I arrive in Manila from Bangkok. And feel as-if I’ve been tossed into a meat grinder!!
Here at the Manila airport, I have a George Orwellian experience with immigration. I’m on the group ‘W’ bench. Packed on top of other travelers from different planes… all herd ’ed thru the queue by the Philippine Military in Coast Guard uniforms.
Babies crying, people being pulled out of line and separated if their paperwork wasn’t right, fear dripping off people. People pushing the queue, jumping in front.
Show your QR code from the Philippine Health App, show your hardcopy vaccination proof. Your negative Antigen test. Your Passport. Your Hotel. Your Purpose here, Your S-Pass App QR code for onward Philippine travel … it was intense, Out of a movie, and I’ll never be the same.
Oh my, travel in the 20’s. This is my second visit to the Philippines,, It will be memorable!!
Somehow, I am permitted entry and succeed in transferring to my Downtown Hotel. New Coast Hotel, I have a 27th floor room overlooking the Manila skyline. Things are looking up!
Hearing numerous stories about how Manila is a dangerous place….I discover a very different city. I walk widely in downtown the next afternoon. Exploring the walled city of Intramuros neighborhoods, visiting Fort Santiago – and its Dungeons notoriously used by the Japanese in WWII. Learning of Jose Rizal, a national hero of the Philippines that stood up to Spanish colonialization and was executed. Still more,, I enjoyed a Mass at the Cathedral of Manila – a beautiful church with an amazing history of being destroyed by earthquakes and fires numerous times, only to be rebuilt again and again – you have to admire Filipino perseverance and faith !!!
And everywhere, the colorful Jeepney’s used as public transportation. Yes, I didn’t wander late late into the night, or far afield….but I did feel totally comfortable exploring downtown Manila.
But,,I’m not in the Philippines for City life. I’m here to dive.
So after a few days in Manila, I jump a domestic flight to Puerto Princesa, Palawan. An island facing the South China Sea on its Western coastline, and the Sulu Sea to its East. A tropical Rain-forest island, with low-lying mountains. Everywhere I travel here, there are lush landscapes. Tree’s covered with Kudzu vines, Banana trees, rice paddies. And everywhere outside Princesa – the largest city on Palawan (but still a small’ish town) - are the tin-roof shacks of farmers, twisting rugged roads – the homes all looking very poor, without electricity. Rural life here must be difficult. I don’t notice any schools and only see limited infrastructure outside of Princesa. This is a very undeveloped island, still finding its future.
On arrival in Puerto Princesa – I have made a serious mistake!!! I often travel without detailed plans for reservations and transfers..enjoying the challenge of finding my way. But that plan Back-fired!!!
I am heading to the north of Palawan – to El Nido. Diving there and exploring this popular beach and diving destination. My Error!!! – The transfer to El Nido is a challenge of challenges!!
I climb onto a small mini-bus, packed with 13 people. I’m crammed like a Sardine. Legs too long to fit, crushed. … But, I think to myself – I can deal with it, no big deal. FAIL!!!
After an hour, I ask how much longer until El Nido? .. 5 more hours!!! No-F’in way!!!
What have I gotten myself into? I had no idea it was a 6 hour transfer. By the time I arrive in El Nido, I’m a big question mark?? Ache all-over. What a mistake!! Yes, the transfer was only 700Peso’s – but this is an insane experience I could have skipped!! And when finally arriving, I still needed to hire a Tuk-Tuk to finally arrive at my hotel, late into the night.
Ahh, but I have a hotel. The Cuna. In the center of El Nido. Cool. El Nido a small village on the South China Sea; with an interesting strip of restaurants, dive shops, massage spa’s, bars and tour companies. Definitely a cool vibe – a little like Phi Phi or Railay in Thailand. But, chill and I like the experience. Finding a ton of good restaurant and espresso choices. Overall my Hotel was good,,but I did have another strange experience there. No Hot Water for showers. Oh my!! I had to boil water in a Tea pot, filling a big bucket they provided with a scoop!! Another 3ed world experience!! You gotta love travel!
The next morning I stop at a few dive shops, and pick Palawan Divers. Wow,, it turns out to be the perfect choice. But my late arrive last night delays my first day of diving.. so I rent a motor scooter and explore Northern Palawan. Traveling to remote beaches of Nacpan and Lio.. they are absolutely stunning. Low-key, just a few tourists. Enjoy a fresh Coconut and take some photo’s. No American’s - like everywhere I travel in 2022. A fun day of easy motor scooter driving, with almost no cars on these rural roads of Northern Palawan.
Finally, I dive. 3 days. Each better and better. Its just Macro photography here around El Nido. But I loved it!! Nudibranch, Ornate Ghost Pipe fish, wonderful Coral. Just day-trips, on out rigger boats. 3-dives a day, with an insanely good lunch feast. I make a ton of friends on-board these dives. I’ll return to El Nido one-day. But.. I’ll avoid the 6 hour transfer,,as I discover it is possible to fly directly here from Manila or Cebu…. Who knew???
El Nido’s coastline is dotted with dozens and dozens of small islands on the horizon. Just a short distance off shore. Beaches everywhere, diving all around these beautiful rock-island’s, with breathtaking scenery everywhere. Blue waters, and epic views. Reminds me of Halong Bay in Vietnam, or Phang Nga Bay of Thailand. Both unique experiences that I treasure..… and now El Nido joins them. …but only better - El Nido has diving – It wins!!
One more relax day in El Nido, and I book a private van transfer for my return to Puerto Princesa… Not making that same transfer mistake again!!! But its 7000pesos. But I am fortunate; I meet another diver (Gjan from Ireland) heading back to Princesa also and we share the cost. Cool. Plenty of room for 2, not for 13 😊
Catching a hotel overnight in Princesa, I board a Live Aboard Dive boat the next day – and head to Tubbataha. Another dive adventure begins !!!
This Tubbataha trip was originally booked and paid for back in 2019. But was canceled due to the Global Lockdowns. But,,to my good fortune – Master Liveaboards – the dive boat operator - honored my Credit.. 2+ years later. Wow… that’s a quality professional dive company.
I spend the next week off the grid. 90 miles from the nearest island. Diving the Tubbataha reefs. Sometimes called atolls, but they are fully submerged. A famous dive destination, and Philippines finest. Open for just 3 months/year, people sign up 1-2 years in advance just to make the trip – openings are precious. I dive on the Philippine Siren. The same boat I was on while visiting the Philippines and diving Cebu a few years back. A cool wooden dive boat with tons of Character.
And I must be on a run of good Karma. Because I get a cabin to myself!! Way cool. Normally I just end up with a random other solo diver..
Diving beautiful reefs everyday is a burden,,,but someone needs to do it. I volunteer.
Marble Rays, friendly sharks, a few Nudibranch, fantastic schools of fish – Bumpheads, Parrot, Jacks, Barracuda, Sweetlips. Great walls everywhere. The weather was overcast most days, and made for difficult photography, but the visibility was still great. Easy diving conditions. Little current – I never would have guessed that. Ahh, what a privilege it is to dive Tabbataha.
After the live aboard, I return to Puerto Princesa for 3 nights. The Hue Hotel – a wonderful place, with great food…And Hot showers…😊 Located next to a funky mall with a collection of restaurants. No tourist in sight, just locals – I love it!
A few days to rest-up after diving and prepare for onward travel. Plus some time to explore this central part of Palawan. The next day I join a day trip to Palawan’s most famous tourist site – The Underground River. This is a cave system about 2 hours outside Princesa. On the tour, I take a short motorized out-rigger boat ride to the cave – always fun, then yet a smaller out-rigger boat – which is paddled thru the cave system. Bat’s everywhere of course. Huge caverns, wide main channels, Stalactites and Stalagmites on display. And great photos of the blue waters surrounding this UNESCO site. It’s run as a tourist attraction, boats in n out all day. But still worth the experience. I do enjoy the beauty of a cave system.. Again, it reminds me of Vietnam and the Caves I explored there. I can only think this island was once connected to the mainland – Vietnam is directly West of Palawan.
One last flight in the Philippines. Back to Manila for one night. Tracking down the required Antigen test figuring out a hotel transfer. I stay near the airport this short visit. In an area called Pasay.... And discover the fantastic NewPort Mall just next to my hotel. Hi-rent stores, movies, restaurants, casino - a Starbucks!! Wow, this is nothing like anything I've seen in the Philippines so-far. I would definitely stay here again while passing thru Manila. A quality hotel and a little luxury is a treat after a few weeks on the out-islands of Philippines.
Here in Pasay, and at many places in the Philippines expect armed guards and x-ray scans to enter.....tight security everywhere. It can be intimidating at-first, but its definitely there to keep the tourists safe. Just part of life here, everyone is accustom to it.
Onward travel. Like they say in Africa - Make a plan. Guess that's good advise for the Philippines too!
Philippines has 7500 islands. I travel to 2 on this visit. Seems like I might need to return a few more times to truly discover this country. But one thing for sure. Diving is a joy here.
Comments