Talofa !! Welcome.
Another beautiful South Pacific island. Each share a common history, culture and language; but yet each stands alone. In Samoa, I again find an island where de-population has shaped the landscape. Many of the islanders ‘escape’ to bigger countries for work and opportunity. Leaving fewer and fewer native islanders. So it is on Samoa.
Arriving very late at the airport, I have managed to arrange a transfer to my hotel. Eight days here, a quick look at Samoa. I stay in their capital and only ‘large’ city. Apia. I’ve found restaurants and hotels and entertainment. Almost no tourists, and definitely no Americans.
I walk to the dive shop my first day and arrange diving for the following morning. – a good start. Then, taking the recommendation of the dive shop owner, I venture by taxi to the edge of the city. Here I find the Robert Louis Stevenson’s home from the 1850’s. Now a museum and garden. And a wonderful find on a tiny island. RLS lived his last 4 years here, writing 13 books here. He is famous for Treasure Island and Dr. Jekyll – plus dozens of more books and poems. The tour of his home was surprising in many ways – but most notably, the museum guide was one of the best guides I’ve ever encountered anywhere. She sang a song – a poem of RLS that was put to Samoa Polynesian language – WOW, such passion I have rarely seen anywhere. And the architecture of the home and its history just fascinated me. – not to mention the magnificent garden grounds. They were setting up for a wedding as I toured.
Diving for the next two days added another adventure to this journey. Shore diving. Just modest reefs and fish to see. The entry had a long swim’s to the reef drop, thru surging waves – a challenge, but fun to conquer. Some interesting Anemone fish - different then I’ve seen elsewhere, and a nice wall and bommies. But mostly, the visibility was poor’ish and the dives more peaceful than exciting. All hard coral, lots of seaweed on the surface and on the ocean floor. We did find several True Clown Fish, and lots of Tomato Anemone. A scattering of reef fish, scorpion fish, but all-in-all; just a peaceful dive. The best part of the adventure might have been the ride to this remote corner of the island – over winding mountain roads to tiny villages. Just a guide and myself. Very primitive. True adventure diving!! Unless you try, you never know what can be found.
After 4 dives, I decided that was plenty here. I explored their marine park for a day of snorkel the follow day in Apia. Finding much better coral, and more reef fish. A fun day, but not something you would call outstanding. Just another day in the islands here. The weather is not-so good, getting rain and winds every day doesn’t help the snorkeling or diving….but even on its best days, the waters are only OK at best.
I rent a car the following day to drive the island. The roads were great. Lined with crotons of every color. Flowers, lush landscape, mountain passes over the island. Just diving the roads was a great adventure. I head for the south coast to visit there Ocean Trench – To Le Sua. A deep hole that is filled with surging sea water thru an Arch. Gorgeous to behold. And the scenic views of the coast line were epic. Massive 4m wave crashing the shore. Wow, I loved the visit and gardens overlooking the Pacific.
Pushing further along the southern coast I locate the Giant Clam Conservatory. It was the best sea-life I found here!!! Dozens of huge 100+ yo clams. Just a short snorkel from shore. Mixed among the monster clams, where tons of younger clams; maybe 20 yo. The variety of color they have is amazing. I’ve seen giant clams many times; Indonesia, Cooks, Solomon’s. But never so many. This was a wonderful snorkel.. Loved it!!
My final full day included a walk to a local Samoa museum. Mostly old pictures of Samoa, and its colonial period. A few WWII and famous Soma exhibits, in an old wooden building. No caretaker, just a donation box. A very casual, small museum.
One interesting cultural observation is regarding the classical Samoa home. Its where we would call a pavilion. Just a roof, and flat floor with columns. No walls. The more up-graded version has a portion of the pavilion wall-ed out; for the bathroom and shower area’s. Or a modernized version has a larger 4-walled structure attached to the back of the Samoa House. Just next to my hotel, I step out of my room an look down into the pavilion of the Samoan home next-door. I see they have pulled a mattress out, and are still sleeping. If it gets cold’ish or rain, they drop curtains to provide protection. I’ve seen some primitive, and similar housing on other Pacific islands, but never quite widely found as here. This style of home is everywhere here.
Another long standing tradition here is tattoo. Tattoo originated in the South Pacific of-coarse. But here, its cultural; and expected. One of my dive guides was a local Samoan. He chose not to get Tat’s. For that, he is often ridiculed and considered an outsider – weak. Conform to your peep’s or you’re an outlier; no matter the country.
Money goes far here. Everything is cheap. More like Indonesia or Vietnam in that manor then like Fiji or Cooks or Solomon’s – where everything was expensive. Taxi rides are just $2, park entries just $5-7 at the most. Even dinners are reasonable. Strange.
I wrap up my Samoa adventure with a Dinner and Dance show at a resort. Ending in a fire dance. Definitely worth the time to enjoy. They where great !!!
Onto the airport, and the US of A. Hawaii next.
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